SMELL: The first condition of understanding a foreign country.

“The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it.” – Rudyard Kipling. My olfactory report is that India smells lighter than it did last time, the urine overtones are still there, and the deep earthy smokey fire smell is there, but the overall impression is that it's sweeter and maybe more floral. Maybe last time the smell was affected by my 4-months of dissentary coupled w/ regular nausea? My most negative assessment of the smell of India in 2009-10 was at one point poo-pee-sweaty masala balls-fire. The smell of India is such a part of the experience of being here. I've always obsessed about it. Meimei converted me to picking up more urine than poo. She was right. On the bus the men smell like sandalwood and it's intoxicating. I love the smell of sandalwood on men---it's quinticentially masculine to me. Today in yoga practice I suddenly realized something smelled funny--and yet it smelled like me in India last time (like layers upone layers of my own sweat). I looked around, smelled my clothes which smelled lovely thanks to Virginia's laundry skills so it wasn't that. Then I thought it could be the guy next to me which happens to be Oloff. And then I put my face down and I realized it was my yoga matt!!! Gross! I'm going to wash it this weekend. Right now it's airing out on the balcony. Meanwhile my heat rashes are returning (making me look just lovely in sundresses). Winter is officially over!